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Cotton · hand-embroidered rosebud sprigs · scalloped peter pan collar · handmade in the Philippines · 1950s · 39cm length flat · fits six to twelve months · excellent condition
Three small sprigs march down the front placket, each one a single rosebud in pale pink with two white leaves either side, spaced so evenly that whoever stitched them must have measured with her eye alone.
The tag at the back neck is woven rather than printed, hand made in the Philippines picked out in a cheerful orange thread, the same claim carried on thousands of these dresses shipped out through the nineteen fifties to department stores across the Pacific. The needlework was cottage industry work, women stitching at home and paid by the piece, and the sprigged collar in front of you is the proof of an afternoon's careful attention rather than a factory's repetition. She is a 1950s dress, plain in silhouette so the embroidery has somewhere quiet to sit.
The collar sits flat and rounded, its edge finished in a fine scallop rather than a plain hem, with a spray of rosebuds worked along the curve on both sides of the placket. Five small white plastic buttons close the front, hand-sewn through worked buttonholes, and the sleeves gather into a soft puff at the shoulder before finishing in a narrow 1cm cuff band, 11cm long in total. The cotton itself is tightly woven yet still sheer, the palest oyster pink, fine enough to show the shadow of a hand held flat behind it.
Material
Cotton, white plastic buttons
Care
Hand wash in cool water and avoid wringing. Dry flat or on a padded hanger out of direct sun. A cool iron on the reverse only, working around the embroidery rather than over it.
More on looking after vintage pieces in our care guide.
Size
Measured flat: Measured flat, she runs 39cm from shoulder to hem, 28cm across the bust, 33cm at the waist and 37cm at the hip, flaring gently to a 42cm hem. Sleeves are short and gathered, 11cm long, finishing in a narrow 1cm cuff band, with a 4.5cm neckline drop framed by the collar. No size printed on the tag, but by these measurements she suits roughly six to twelve months.
Our size guide explains how vintage sizing is read here.
Condition
Excellent. The embroidery sits flat and complete along the collar with no missing stitches, all five buttons are original and functioning, and the cotton shows no marks, tears or discolouration. This one reads exhibition condition, closer to unworn than loved-in.
Our condition lexicon explains the grades we use.
Before it reaches you
Someone loved this before you did, and I try to honour that properly. Each piece is hand washed, or cleaned in the way that the fabric permits, then steamed until it softens and straightens and feels newly attended to. Wherever a button was missing, it has been replaced with a vintage one from my long-kept collection. Wherever a hem had given way, I fix it by hand. By the time it leaves this room it is genuinely clean, pressed, whole, and looked over one final time before I let myself believe it is ready. Not restored. Not made new. Just returned to a state where it can be loved again, by someone who was not there the first time.
The rosebuds along the collar are counting something, though nobody has worked out what: some mornings there are three to a sprig, some evenings only two, and the third turns up again before anyone thinks to check twice. Five white buttons hold five separate opinions about how fast a small child can wriggle out of a dress, and so far the buttons are winning. The scallops at the collar's edge are the only part of her that agrees to stay still.
