Care Guide

Hand wash in cool water with the smallest possible amount of a pH-neutral soap (a drop, not a pour). Submerge, swirl once or twice as if persuading rather than insisting, then rinse in water of exactly the same temperature. Silk contracts in shock; thermal change is its nemesis. Never wring. Lay flat in a clean towel and roll, press gently, unroll. Dry cleaning is always a dignified option and, for heavily structured or beaded silks, the only one.

Fold loosely in acid-free tissue or hang on a padded hanger (never wire). Store away from light; silk is photosensitive and will shift colour with prolonged exposure. Do not store in plastic, which traps moisture and encourages subtle deterioration that only reveals itself years later.

Silk rewards a light touch: no rough jewellery at the cuffs, no handbag straps pulling across the same spot repeatedly. Perspiration is silk’s quiet enemy; a silk camisole underneath buys the outer layer considerably more life. Allow silk to rest between wearings; it springs back from creases with remarkable willingness if given the chance.

Most wool prefers not to be washed at all in the traditional sense; a gentle airing will resolve most situations. When washing is necessary, hand wash in cool water with wool-specific soap, pressing the garment through the water rather than agitating it. Agitation is what felts wool; felt is irreversible. Never wring, never twist, never persuade. Roll in a towel. Dry flat, reshaped to its original dimensions while still damp.

Fold, do not hang: hanging stretches the shoulders of knits into something resembling a question mark. Interleave with cedar or dried lavender. For long-term storage, clean the garment first (moths are drawn to body oils, not the wool itself) and fold in acid-free tissue inside a breathable cotton bag. Never plastic.

Wool pills from friction: the inner arm, under the bag strap, wherever two surfaces meet repeatedly. A cashmere comb or sweater stone, used gently, removes pills without damage. Tweed and heavy wools are more forgiving; they were designed for a life spent outdoors in unpredictable conditions and maintain this attitude magnificently.

Hand wash in cool water with baby shampoo or specialist cashmere wash, no more than once a season if you can help it. Between washes, air the garment overnight outside (not in direct sun) after wearing. Press gently through the water. Never rub, never wring. Dry absolutely flat. Cashmere is at its most vulnerable when wet.

Store folded in breathable cotton or wrapped in tissue, with cedar nearby. Cashmere stored in a cedar-lined drawer is cashmere that lasts decades. Cedar must be replaced or sanded periodically; its oils are what deter moths, and those oils dissipate over time. De-pill at the end of each season before storage.

Wear cashmere against clean skin or over a silk camisole; repeated contact with perfume, body lotion, and perspiration is what degrades the fibre fastest. Rotate pieces; cashmere needs at least a day’s rest between wearings to spring back fully.

Linen is one of the most washable of fabrics; it can take a machine wash on a cool or warm cycle, ideally inside a mesh bag. For antique or very fine linens, hand wash in cool water. Linen softens and improves with every washing. Do not tumble dry on high heat; lay flat or hang while still slightly damp.

Store clean; linen is susceptible to mildew if stored damp or dirty. Fold along natural creases where possible. Store in a cool, dry, ventilated space. White linens will yellow over time if stored in plastic; cotton or linen bags are far better companions.

Linen creases. Accept this. A linen dress worn for an hour will look as though you have been living your life in it, which is exactly the correct impression. Steam is kinder than a dry iron and less likely to leave shine on slubby textures.

Most cottons wash beautifully in cool to warm water. The exception is fine, antique, or embroidered cotton; these prefer a cool hand wash and to be handled as rarely as possible. Dark cottons should be washed inside out in cold water to preserve colour. Cotton velvets and corduroys must be washed with care and dried with the pile brushed in the correct direction.

Cotton stores easily: clean, dry, in a breathable environment. White cotton will yellow with age and with contact with acid-containing materials; store white pieces in blue acid-free tissue if you want to preserve them precisely.

Cotton is forgiving to wear but can show perspiration staining over time; rinsing a cotton garment in cool water immediately after wearing, before it dries fully, prevents most permanent staining.

Silk velvet: do not wash. Dry clean only, and find a dry cleaner who actually knows about it. Cotton velvet can be hand washed in cool water, turned inside out, with minimal agitation and no wringing. The pile must be dried in the correct direction. Steam is velvet’s best friend; a clothes steamer held an inch from the surface, pile facing down, will revive crushed velvet magnificently.

Store velvet hanging where possible, or folded very loosely in tissue with no sharp creases; a crease pressed into velvet pile can be permanent without careful steaming. Keep away from other garments that might crush the pile. Store in a dark environment.

Velvet marks easily: fingerprints, sitting creases, the impression of a button pressed against it. These are mostly temporary and respond to steaming or gentle brushing. Avoid wearing rough textures against velvet.

Silk chiffon: hand wash in the coolest water, the most minimal soap, the least possible handling. It must not be wrung or even squeezed; roll it in a towel, once, lightly. Dry flat or hung over a towel rail with no pegs, which leave marks. Polyester chiffon will take a gentle machine cycle in a mesh bag. Cotton voile can be hand or delicately machine washed in cool water.

Store loosely folded or hanging in a breathable garment bag. Silk chiffon is susceptible to snags from rough surfaces, wire hangers, and proximity to embellishments on other garments; it needs a little distance and a little kindness.

Chiffon demands that you move through the world with a certain intention: no rushing through narrow doorways, no stuffing into a bag. It is a fabric for being arrived-in rather than transported in. Hang in a steamy bathroom and let the creases release themselves rather than reaching for an iron.

Dry clean for most brocades and complex jacquards; the multiple fibres and floats involved in the weave can behave differently when wet. Simple cotton jacquards may be hand washed in cool water with care. When in doubt, do not wash. Air instead.

Store folded in acid-free tissue, pattern side inward. Avoid folding along the same lines repeatedly; brocade can crack at a crease if stored folded in one position for years. Large pieces are better stored rolled on an acid-free tube. Keep away from light.

Brocade is a fabric that knows it is brocade. It holds its shape, announces its presence, and requires very little from you except to wear it without apology. A brocade blazer is best removed before a long dinner.

Hand wash with extreme care in cool water and the smallest possible amount of silk-specific soap, supporting the fabric fully throughout; never allow it to hang under its own weight when wet, as this can tear weakened fibres. Rinse gently. Roll in a towel very lightly. Dry flat, away from light. For antique or heavily embroidered organza: dry clean only, and tell the dry cleaner exactly what it is. For any organza with splits or fragile areas: do not wash. Air only.

Roll rather than fold where possible; organza retains fold creases with conviction and antique pieces can split along a fold line. If folding is unavoidable, interleave with acid-free tissue at every fold. Store in a breathable environment away from light, which yellows white and ivory organza over time.

Organza is not a fabric that forgives being rushed. It snags on jewellery, catches on rough surfaces, and splits at weakened points without warning. Wear it with attention. Handle antique organza pieces as you would handle something that has been waiting a long time to be worn, which is exactly what it has been doing.

Hand wash only, in the coolest water, with the gentlest possible soap (ideally a specialist conservation soap or pure unscented soap flakes) conservation soap or pure unscented soap flakes. Do not agitate; submerge and very gently press the water through. Do not wring under any circumstances. Support the full weight of the piece when lifting it from the water; a wet piece of cotton lawn can tear under its own weight. Roll in a clean white towel (coloured towels can transfer dye). Dry flat on a clean white sheet, away from direct sun.

Store in acid-free tissue inside a breathable cotton or muslin bag (never plastic). Check periodically for yellowing or foxing. If a piece has already yellowed, a specialist textile conservator can sometimes reverse this; it is not a home project. Store flat rather than folded where possible. If folding, change the fold lines periodically to prevent permanent creasing and weakening.

With awareness. Antique cotton nightgowns are not for throwing on; they are for occasions when you have the time and attention to be careful. Sit carefully, avoid jewellery with sharp edges, and remove before doing anything that involves water. The embroidery is usually the most fragile part; broderie anglaise with its cut-out work is particularly susceptible to catching and tearing.

Do not wash leather. Do not put it in water. For surface dirt, wipe with a damp (not wet) cloth and allow to dry naturally away from heat. For deeper cleaning, use a leather-specific cleaner applied sparingly with a soft cloth, working in small sections. Patent leather needs only a wipe with a slightly damp cloth; it does not require conditioning. Dry cleaning is possible for some leathers; specialist leather dry cleaners only, not general dry cleaners.

Store hanging on a padded hanger; leather holds the shape it is given, and a folded or squashed leather jacket will remember the fold. Cover loosely with a breathable garment bag; never plastic, which causes mildew. Condition the leather before storage with a good quality leather conditioner, which prevents the drying and cracking that happens when leather is inactive for extended periods. Store away from heat sources and direct light, which dry and fade leather.

Condition leather every few wearings, or whenever it begins to feel dry or look dull. A small amount of leather conditioner on a soft cloth, buffed in gently, is sufficient. For rain: allow wet leather to dry naturally at room temperature; never near a radiator or in direct sun, which will harden and crack it. Stuff with newspaper while drying to maintain the shape. Hardware (zips, buckles, studs) can be treated with a tiny amount of metal polish on a cloth, avoiding the leather itself.

Do not wash suede. For surface dirt when dry: a suede brush used gently in the direction of the nap will lift most surface dust and light marks. For stubborn marks: a suede eraser rubbed gently, then brush to restore the nap. For water marks: allow to dry completely, then brush. Water stains on suede are best treated by lightly dampening the whole piece to create an even surface (counterintuitive but effective). For serious stains: specialist suede cleaner, tested first on a hidden area.

Store in a breathable garment bag away from moisture. Stuff shoes with shoe trees or tissue to maintain shape. Before storing, treat with a suede protector spray, which creates a barrier against moisture and light staining. Reapply every season. Keep away from anything that might press against the nap and flatten it permanently.

Spray with suede protector before first wear and after cleaning. Avoid wearing suede in rain if possible; if caught in rain, blot gently with a clean cloth (do not rub), allow to dry naturally away from heat, then brush gently to restore the nap once completely dry. The nap flattens with wear in high-contact areas; a suede brush used regularly keeps it lifted and even.

The default for any significantly embellished piece is: do not wash. Spot clean only, with the smallest possible amount of appropriate cleaner on a soft cloth, working around rather than over the embellishment where possible. For beaded or sequinned garments that must be cleaned: hand wash in the coolest water, gently, inside out if possible, supporting the weight of the beading throughout; beads are heavy when wet and can pull stitching. For diamanté: avoid water on the stones where possible, as it can cloud the adhesive and loosen the setting. Dry flat, embellishment side up.

Store flat or rolled in tissue, never folded at a point where embellishment will be compressed; the embellishment holds the crease and the fabric under it does not recover. For bags: stuff to maintain shape. Check embellishment periodically for loose stones or threads; repair immediately, as one lost stone creates stress on its neighbours. Store away from other garments to prevent snagging.

Embellished pieces require the most considered wearing. Sit carefully; sitting on beading compresses it against the fabric and can break the thread. Avoid contact with rough surfaces. Take the piece off before putting it in a bag. Allow it to travel in something protective. The diamanté bag that goes everywhere in a crowded handbag returns with half its stones. The same bag carried in its dust bag arrives intact. It is worth the extra step.

Silk satin: hand wash in cool water as per silk. Acetate satin: hand wash in cool water only, extremely gently; acetate distorts and wrinkles with rough handling when wet and is difficult to restore. Polyester satin: cool machine wash in a mesh bag or hand wash. Never iron acetate satin directly; never use acetone near any satin; keep perfume away from the fabric, not just the label.

Store hanging on a padded hanger or rolled in tissue. Satin picks up every mark and every crease, and creases in acetate satin can be permanent. Store away from other garments to prevent snags; the satin weave’s long floats catch on absolutely everything.

Satin snags. On jewellery, on rough skin, on other fabrics in the same wardrobe. Be conscious of this when dressing and undressing. Avoid contact with perfume on the fabric itself; spray perfume before dressing, allow it to dry completely, then put the garment on. Satin shows every mark in certain lights; check in natural light before wearing.

Silk taffeta: hand wash in cool water with extreme care, or dry clean. Acetate taffeta: dry clean only, and specify acetate to the dry cleaner. Water causes acetate taffeta to watermark almost instantly and permanently; even a raindrop will leave a visible mark. If caught in rain: blot immediately with a clean dry cloth, do not rub, allow to dry naturally. Take to a dry cleaner as soon as possible.

Roll in acid-free tissue rather than fold; taffeta’s crisp weave creates permanent fold lines. Store in a breathable garment bag. The moiré pattern in moiré taffeta is created by a finishing process and can be damaged by pressure; never store moiré taffeta under other garments.

Taffeta is theatrical by nature; it announces its presence. The rustle is the whole point. Wear it to things that deserve the sound. Avoid sitting on it for long periods, which creases it. Avoid water. A light steam from a distance of several inches will release light creasing without watermarking; never steam shot or moiré taffeta directly.

Silk tulle: do not wash. Spot clean only, or professional conservation cleaning. Nylon tulle: hand wash in cool water with the gentlest possible soap, handling minimally. Do not wring or twist; squeeze gently and roll in a towel. Dry by hanging loosely (not pegged) or laying flat. For petticoats with stiffened net: dry cleaning preserves the stiffness, which washing will remove and which is difficult to restore at home. Some vintage petticoat restorers recommend a light sugar-water spray to restore stiffness; this is a specialist technique, not a home one.

Store hanging where possible, or loosely rolled in tissue (never compressed). A tulle petticoat stored flat under weight will lose its volume and may not recover it. Store in a breathable garment bag away from light, which yellows nylon tulle over time.

Tulle catches on everything: rings, rough skin, jewellery, other fabrics. Be conscious of this when putting it on and taking it off. The volume of a layered tulle petticoat is also its fragility; each layer is fine; treat each layer accordingly.

Do not immerse leather shoes in water. Clean the upper with a damp cloth for surface dirt, then apply leather conditioner or shoe cream in a matching colour with a soft cloth, buffing to a shine. Polish with a horsehair brush for the final finish. The sole: a damp cloth removes dirt; a cobbler can resole, reheel, or repair leather soles and heels. Patent leather: wipe with a slightly damp cloth and a tiny amount of petroleum jelly to maintain shine; do not use polish on patent. Suede shoes: suede brush for surface dirt; suede eraser for marks.

Use shoe trees; cedar shoe trees are ideal, as they absorb moisture and maintain the shape. If shoe trees are not available, stuff with acid-free tissue. Store in the original box or in individual shoe bags to prevent dust and prevent shoes from marking each other. Do not store in plastic boxes, which prevent the leather from breathing. For long-term storage, condition before storing.

Rotate shoes; leather needs to breathe and rest between wearings. Apply leather conditioner or waterproofing spray before first wear and periodically thereafter. Avoid walking in rain without waterproofing treatment; if wet, allow to dry naturally at room temperature with shoe trees inside, away from heat. Resoling before the sole wears through to the upper extends the life of the shoe significantly; a good cobbler is essential.

For cotton and linen pieces, which is most of what is here, hand wash in cool water with a gentle, fragrance-free soap. Baby skin is sensitive. Rinse thoroughly. Lay flat to dry, away from direct sun, which fades and weakens old fibres over time. For wool and hand-knits: cool water, wool wash, pressed rather than agitated, rolled in a towel, dried flat. Never hang a wet knit. Never. For broderie anglaise and heavily embroidered pieces: hand wash only, very gently, and dry flat with the embroidered side face down on a clean towel. This preserves the raised texture of the work.

Storage between seasons: clean first, always. Fold in acid-free tissue. Keep in a breathable cotton bag or box. These pieces have lasted decades with care. They will last decades more with yours.

Some of these are made for a life of being worn; some, the finest and most embroidered, the ones with small buttons and ribbons, are better kept for dressing-up, for photographs, for keeping. Each listing tells you what we think a piece is suited to. And never leave a baby unattended in anything with small or loose parts; beauty and safety are not always the same thing, and safety comes first.