













First Flower · Handmade in the Philippines 1950s-60s Embroidered Infant Vest
Cotton lawn · hand-embroidered pastel florets · picot trim · handmade in the Philippines · 1950s-60s · 24 cm length · fits newborn to three months · very good condition
Seven bullion-knot rosebuds knot themselves into the collar in pale yellow and pink, each one no bigger than a fingernail, placed the way a hand drops petals rather than the way a pattern repeats them. Run a finger over one and it sits slightly raised, a small hard pearl of thread holding its shape after all these decades.
The printed tag at the neck reads imported from the Philippines, all cotton, the kind of label that department stores across the United States and Australia carried through the middle of last century, when Filipino needlework was prized for its patience and precision. This was cottage industry work: women stitching by hand, paid by the piece, and that quiet skill is exactly what makes it worth keeping.
The front closes with a run of white picot framing two small yellow tinted buttons, hand-set through hand-worked buttonholes. Neckline and armholes are finished raw in a soft scalloped wave rather than bound or hemmed, a technique that asks for a steady hand and no unpicking. A slit under these buttons is the practical allowance that let a nineteen-fifties or sixties baby wear a vest like this comfortably over a nappy. Every floret on the bodice is worked in the same three shades, pink, sky blue and butter yellow, in lazy daisy and bullion stitch, unrepeated in exact placement front to front.
Material
Cotton, plastic buttons, cotton embroidery thread
Care
Hand wash in cool water alone or with like fabrics, using the gentlest wool or delicates wash. Do not wring. Press out excess water in a towel and lay flat away from direct sun to dry, as old cotton left folded damp will yellow unevenly. If ironing, use the lowest setting with a pressing cloth over the embroidery so the bullion knots keep their shape. Store flat or loosely folded in acid-free tissue rather than on a hanger, as the fabric may thin with age and will stress at the shoulder seams under its own weight over time.
More on looking after vintage pieces in our care guide.
Size
Measured flat: Laid flat she measures 24 centimetres from shoulder to hem, 28 centimetres across the bust and 27.5 at the waist, with a hem width of 28 centimetres and a shallow 6 centimetre neckline drop. No size is marked on the label. Given her narrow, almost boxy cut, she reads as a piece for a newborn up to about three months, sized for a baby rather than a toddler, with room enough for a nappy beneath.
Our size guide explains how vintage sizing is read here.
Condition
Good to very good. The cotton has softened with age into something closer to gossamer than its original hand, and the front placket shows faint press memory where it was folded flat for years. The woven label at the neck is fraying gently at its edges. There is a light overall warmth to the white, more oyster than true white now, even and consistent rather than patchy. No holes, no moth kiss, no stains; the raw scalloped edges at neckline and armhole are all intact and have not unravelled beyond their original wave. Buttons are all present and function cleanly through their hand-worked holes.
Our condition lexicon explains the grades we use.
Before it reaches you
Someone loved this before you did, and I try to honour that properly. Each piece is hand washed, or cleaned in the way that the fabric permits, then steamed until it softens and straightens and feels newly attended to. Wherever a button was missing, it has been replaced with a vintage one from my long-kept collection. Wherever a hem had given way, I fix it by hand. By the time it leaves this room it is genuinely clean, pressed, whole, and looked over one final time before I let myself believe it is ready. Not restored. Not made new. Just returned to a state where it can be loved again, by someone who was not there the first time.
Someone believed, without ever writing it down, that a garment worked in three colours rather than one would confuse anyone hoping to claim the baby for luck or otherwise, so the pink and the blue and the yellow were never meant to agree, only to share a stem. Filipino grandmothers still tell you not to finish embroidery on a child's first garment in a single sitting, or the child will grow up restless; you can see, if you look closely at the uneven spacing between blossoms, that whoever made this one took her time. It has kept its own small habits since: it prefers to be stored on its back, not its front, and the label is fraying at exactly the corner where a thumb would rest to fold it. Somewhere there was a baby once, It has been counting the buttonholes since.
