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Aurélie · 1980s · tagged a vintage 10 · exhibition condition · puff sleeves · structured drop waist · keyhole back with bejewelled button · tulle petticoat
The roses on this dress were never meant to look painted. Look closely and every petal is built from a fine cross-hatch, ink over ink, the way a botanist might shade a specimen before the age of photographs: peach over lavender over a teal so deep it reads as shadow. It is a print that rewards standing still in front of it, which is a strange thing to ask of a party dress.
A dress like this descends from a very particular lineage: the party frock that never quite forgot the ballgown it once was, its waist dropped low the way waists dropped in the twenties, then again in the eighties when nostalgia came back around wearing bigger sleeves. Aurélie is barely a whisper of a name now, but whoever set this print onto cloth understood that a screen-printed rose could still ache like something painted by hand, if the ink was allowed to cross-hatch instead of flatten. That is the particular magic of her: an ordinary manufacturing trick, worked patiently enough to fool the eye into tenderness. The tulle beneath the skirt is inherited too, borrowed from grander dresses and smuggled quietly into a Tuesday-night frock. It is why she belongs here: not because anyone remembers her name, but because someone, once, refused to let a party dress stay simple.
The sleeves are gathered into a soft puff at the shoulder, and the bodice drops into a structured waist seam before the skirt is gathered full below it, a self-fabric bow tied at the back of that seam for good measure. The back itself opens into a long keyhole from nape to waist, closed at the top with a single bejewelled button, with a concealed zip. Underneath, a tulle petticoat is built into the hem, just enough to lift the skirt without announcing itself.
Material
Synthetic fibre, untagged and unconfirmed beyond that
Care
Gentle wash on cool. Hang to dry out of direct sun.
More on looking after vintage pieces in our care guide.
Size
Measured flat: Tagged a vintage 10. Measured flat: bodice length 49cm, skirt length 65cm (114cm total length), bust 48cm, waist 37cm, hip at the waist seam 41cm, hip through the gathered skirt 76cm, sleeve length 35cm, bicep 17cm, cuff 15cm, neckline drop 6cm, back bow 32cm wide, back keyhole 30cm long. The maker's own size tag reads to fit bust 90cm, waist 69cm, hip 95cm, which lines up closely with the flat measurements taken here. A true modern AU 10, International size S.
Our size guide explains how vintage sizing is read here.
Condition
Exhibition condition. Recently soaked and refreshed, and shows no flaws.
Our condition lexicon explains the grades we use.
Before it reaches you
Someone loved this before you did, and I try to honour that properly. Each piece is hand washed, or cleaned in the way that the fabric permits, then steamed until it softens and straightens and feels newly attended to. Wherever a button was missing, it has been replaced with a vintage one from my long-kept collection. Wherever a hem had given way, I fix it by hand. By the time it leaves this room it is genuinely clean, pressed, whole, and looked over one final time before I let myself believe it is ready. Not restored. Not made new. Just returned to a state where it can be loved again, by someone who was not there the first time.
Every rose on this dress is having an argument with the one beside it about which shade of the garden gets to win. Nobody has settled it in forty years and nobody will settle it tonight either. Wear her to something you are slightly too excited about and the keyhole at the back will do the rest of the talking, a small confession cut into the fabric where a spine should be private. She was built for one particular kind of evening, the kind that runs late and gets retold badly for years afterward. Do not correct the story. Let her keep it.
